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Alignment area Setup procedure - feedback needed please

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  • #16
    Originally posted by fatbillybob View Post
    I find danger with car elevated and not supported like on a twin post lift. I think you are better off on the floor. Take a measure guess at the adjustment, settle the suspension and measure again. You want a flat floor to do the camber and have your gauge zeroed to that floor. It just makes it easy repeatable ref point. If you are on a slope then you need to zero against the slope. It just makes things more difficult. Hubstand work great if you can get to all the adjustment points. If not better to leave the wheels on unless you have a twin post lift and can move the car up and down with or w/o hubstands while settling the suspension. IMO the closer you get to spherical suspension the more precise you need to be. If you still got rubber bushings the accuracy just isn't there.
    I edited my post because I think I miss-read yours.
    So you don't like a tiwn post lift. So what do you prefer or like ?

    I have ditched the quick-jack and gotten a scissor lift. I absolutely love it since it goes up and down in place. I just drive over it and call it a day.
    What I also do - or did today was I left the car down on the scales with the levelers but still kept the lift fairly close of the bottom of the car. I think that is the rear wheel have a chock on them or the e-brake in on then you are okay. Do you think otherwise?

    PS: The hubtands had "safety plates" to the car doesn't roll off sideways.
    Last edited by FoxSTI; 08-27-2017, 10:38 PM.


    • #17
      No I like to work on a lift. I use a full twin post shop lift but a home style short rise scissor lift works great too. Some roll on 4 post lifts you can park a car under and get turn plates to do alignments and roll the car back and forth on the lift to settle suspension.


      • #18
        Guys I have a question,

        I was aligning my daily drive car last night. when I put the car on the stand to align it and projected the lasers along the car etc and I was all set and done,
        I have the steering wheel centered, and 1/8" toe in, 1/16" either side. When I drove the car, I thought or expected it to track straight with the steering wheels pointing straight ahead, however, the car drives straight with the steering wheels slightly turned to the left.
        At first I was thinking that it may be related to the crown on the road, but my track car, drives straight with the wheel centered. Mind you I have not messed with the suspension yet.

        So what could it be?

        Also, those using laser lines rather then strings. How do you feel about the +/- 1/8" over 30' specs on most lasers?