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Thread: Endurance Lighting

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    Administrator ucfbrett's Avatar
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    Default Endurance Lighting

    OK, I'm trying to get my car ready for the NASA WERC race in April at Buttonwillow. I have a 20-inch LED light bar poised for installation. I think it will work with the enhanced stock headlamps I have in the works (thank you, Moti, for the tip) but as an electrical, well, moron, I think I need some help wiring it up.

    The parking lamp on my 95 Miata has a great connector, which I'd like to use. My quite-possibly-delusional plan is to disconnect it, then direct wire the LED light bar to the connector, which clicks on and off lickety split. No muss, no fuss.

    But that leads me to believe I'll be blowing fuses and melting wires the moment I turn on the lights. Looking for some electrical genius on TrackHQ.com.

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    I wanna go fast! thepass's Avatar
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    Most high-draw lighting has a wire for the actual power supply to it, and a separate wire for the "switch" that tells it to turn off or on. You'd run the main power wire straight to the battery or to a main power supply like the battery lead in the fuse box, and use proper gauge wiring and a properly sized fuse on for that line. The signal wire for turning it off/on can be smaller gauge, and would be fine to hook up to the (+) wire on the parking light connector, since it doesn't need to pass many amps through it.
    Then again, these LEDs may be relatively low draw, so it might not be much of an issue either way...

    -Ryan
    Ryan Passey
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    "The sport dedicating to the spirits of time attacking motoring" -Emilio

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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Brad: make sure you also have some kind of cornering lights.
    PM me for some tips.
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    RaceTape Ninja Force McCocken's Avatar
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    My father was an electrical engineer and a rally driver. He used a a lot of mil-spec connectors (amphenol) and aviation/marine grade electronics(breakers) on the lighting and generally everything electrical on his cars. They were easy to disconnect/reconnect repeatedly, water tight, and extremely durable. Amphenol also make it a bit easier to create custom circuits for purposes like this. Maybe not much help, but good fodder for thought about this project.

    Anyway, you need to look at the draw and specs for the light bars and figure them into the existing circuit you are adding them to. I usually have to brush up on basic circuit/electronic theory to do this, but creating a separate circuit off the fuse block may not be a bad idea.

    Sort of funny, but as many sketchy mechanical repairs my father might have done with questionable spares to his cars, his electronics were flawless and usually the least problematic.
    Yer pal,
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    Senior Member robburgoon's Avatar
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    Brad, what's the amp draw on that light bar? Look at that, then look at the fuse box. Stay under the fuse rating. I was able to rig up my lights with 3 lights on the highbeam circuit and 1 light on the parking light circuit.

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    Administrator ucfbrett's Avatar
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    I'll have to see if I can find the amp draw. It's not listed in the specs.

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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    You are overthinking this. Like Ryan said, lights run through relay. Power goes directly to battery (LED don't draw much anyway), switched power goes to parking light. Done
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    What are these enhanced stock headlights you speak of?

    Sounds like something more then the H4 Cibie/Hella conversions... yes?

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    Administrator ucfbrett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    Brad: make sure you also have some kind of cornering lights.
    PM me for some tips.
    what kind of setup do you use for these?

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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    those are just basically what comes stock in Euro market.
    not sure how you gonna use that for ? it is either high or low beam.
    you need some type of fog lights (with wide patterns) for corner beams.

    when you are aligning lights in static. remember that corner lights needs to be aimed higher, because nose will dip during braking. frontal lights needs to be aimed slightly lower, because nose will rise during acceleration (this don't apply to Miata, not accelerating enough to matter).
    Last edited by bellwilliam; 03-21-2014 at 05:18 PM.
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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazmad View Post
    what kind of setup do you use for these?
    It would be best to use LED for corner lights to. but use wide angle ones for corner lights.
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    Ah, ok. Thanks!

    And like others have said, LED usually draw much lower amperage than conventional lighting... though I don't have any first hand experience with them myself...

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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    It would be best to use LED for corner lights to. but use wide angle ones for corner lights.
    Thanks.

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    http://www.trackhq.com/Banners/yellowsitesponsor.gif Blackbird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    those are just basically what comes stock in Euro market.
    not sure how you gonna use that for ? it is either high or low beam.
    The beam pattern is significantly improved over the US OEM candles the NA comes with.
    Since Brandon is going to run with his stock headlights in place in addition to the aux lights, there's no reason not to use them.
    Last edited by Blackbird; 03-24-2014 at 10:04 AM.

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    I've been gearing up for trying out an Enduro as well, was shooting for April but it doesn't look like I'll be ready quite yet. I'd be interested in any feedback on my setup as well.



    Electrically, I've got 2 circuits with 2 relays and 2 circuit breakers pulling power from the switched side of the main terminal on my Master Switch (basically hooked straight to the alternator charge wire). My worst fear is an electrical failure on track in the dark resulting in a loss of lighting, so the lighting circuits are nearly independent (1 signal wire to energize both relays). Lamps are Hella's "Driving Lamp" pattern.

    Sorry to hijack, carry on!
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    Administrator ucfbrett's Avatar
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    That's not a hijack. That's good stuff.

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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schrotacular View Post
    I've been gearing up for trying out an Enduro as well, was shooting for April but it doesn't look like I'll be ready quite yet. I'd be interested in any feedback on my setup as well.

    Electrically, I've got 2 circuits with 2 relays and 2 circuit breakers pulling power from the switched side of the main terminal on my Master Switch (basically hooked straight to the alternator charge wire). My worst fear is an electrical failure on track in the dark resulting in a loss of lighting, so the lighting circuits are nearly independent (1 signal wire to energize both relays). Lamps are Hella's "Driving Lamp" pattern.

    Sorry to hijack, carry on!
    that's 4 big honking Hella. are they standard 55w ? or 100w version ? or 35w Xenon ?
    with 55w, they are okay.
    with 100w, you must be careful with current draw, most likely, your stock alternator won't handle it. also make sure your kill switch will handle it.
    with 35w Xenon, light pattern sucks.

    you also should have 2 with wider pattern ones for cornering, 2 narrow ones for afar.
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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird View Post
    The beam pattern is significantly improved over the US OEM candles the NA comes with.
    Since Brandon is going to run with his stock headlights in place in addition to the aux lights, there's no reason not to use them.
    euro pattern is better than US pattern, but that's not saying much. they all sucks, one just suck more than the other. for drivers over 40 years old. buy the BEST lights, period. I guarantee comes racing at BRP in a moon-less wind-less (dust will hang for 2 laps) night, you will say to yourself. "fuc* bellwilliam, he should of told me to spend on lighting as much as the car itself"
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    euro pattern is better than US pattern, but that's not saying much. they all sucks, one just suck more than the other. for drivers over 40 years old. buy the BEST lights, period. I guarantee comes racing at BRP in a moon-less wind-less (dust will hang for 2 laps) night, you will say to yourself. "fuc* bellwilliam, he should of told me to spend on lighting as much as the car itself"
    This.

    Many regrets you may have. Spending way too much on lights if you are over 40, will not be one of them.

    Anyone who has ever driven one of our enduro cars knows why we fuss over the details and why the lights are so kick ass.
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    But obviously I just dont get it. -fatbillybob

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