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Thread: Modular Fords

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    Senior Member slodrew's Avatar
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    Default Modular Fords

    So I just picked up a new/used engine for my low budget crown vic track car. $300 for a 32 valve 4.6 with 81k miles out of a 93 Lincoln Mark VIII. These early 32 valve engines were built with Italian made "Teksid" aluminum blocks that are good for 900-1200 horsepower, depending on who you ask. They are also 80 lbs lighter than the cast iron blocks and oddly enough they are interchangeable, even with the late model PI (performance improved) 2v heads. They use the same cam chains, guides, tensioners, head gaskets, etc. This is where it gets really cool.. If you take one of these Teksid short blocks and put the late model PI heads on it the compression ratio will be as high as 12.5:1 depending on how much work is done in the combustion chambers and the thickness of the head gaskets that are used. I'll be shooting for closer to 11:1 so I can still run pump gas.. Here's a dyno chart from an Mustang with an engine built this way:
    dyno.jpg

    Hoping to get it swapped out by the end of the month

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    Not Certified Slow SDSUsnowboards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slodrew View Post
    Hoping to get it swapped out by the end of the month
    I've heard that before. See you on track again in 1 or two years.
    SteveLevin and bawareca like this.
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    Master of Disaster SteveLevin's Avatar
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    your vicki is really gonna rock... I'm jealous!

    Steve

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    I was just talking to a few of my friends saying we need to track some crown vics!

    What suspension/brake mods have you done or plan on doing?

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    Senior Member slodrew's Avatar
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    I've got drilled bendix rotors with performance friction pads and motul rbf 600 fluid right now and they seem to work better and better the hotter they get.. the bendix fleet met pads work really good too and they're only about $45 a set for the front. For the suspension the first thing you want to do is pry the little chingaderas off the lower control arm bolts in the front and then turn the eccentrics they have hidden underneath so you get as much negative camber as possible. Then go to the rear mounting location for the lower control arms and pull them as far toward the outside of the car as possible and then tighten up the bolts, and that will give you your castor.. next I would pull the front strut assemblies and disassemble them carefully with a proper spring compressor and then cut the springs just short enough that you don't need the spring compressor to reassemble them lol! Now you need to get your tape measure and set the toe.. it will be all out of wack from the other changes you did but a little patience and a tape measure is all you need and I set mine at zero toe in because it seems to turn in better..
    In the rear you can't just cut the springs and put them back in because they won't sit in the perches right so if you're still with me on this you'll probably need to use a torch and try to remake that pig tail shape that you just got off when you removed a coil or two lol.
    (This is all hypothetically speaking of course right? For entertainment purposes only. Modifying your vehicle may be dangerous and result in injury or death or worse.. )
    Now you need wheels and tires and a manual transmission lol.. biggest bang for the buck that I found were these American racing wheels in 17" x 10.5" with nitt nt01s for about $400 per corner and worth every penny of it!
    I've actually done some other stuff with the suspension that I'd be more than happy to share with you if you truly want to know.. but it's just about supper time and I gots to go.

    Peace

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    Senior Member robburgoon's Avatar
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    We want to know everything, especially how low you got with weight reduction.

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    Senior Member slodrew's Avatar
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    Have never weighed it and I have done very little to reduce weight. The manual trans might be good for 50-60 lbs., it's got front seats out of a 2012 mustang gt that are a bit lighter and they use the same side impact airbags as the cv, but they suck and need to be upgraded and we're probably less than 30 lbs. lighter between the two of them. I'm getting to the point now where it's time to think about safety and the future of the car. I should probably either stop modifying while all the factory safety equipment is still functional or cage it and get rid of everything that doesn't make it go fast..

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    http://www.trackhq.com/Banners/yellowsitesponsor.gif Blackbird's Avatar
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    I vote for cage and converting it to a pickup at the same time.
    Why?
    Not entirely sure, I always thought that turning an ex-police car into a pickup would be pretty cool and in your case will swallow every bit of track gear, extra wheels and all the rest of your stuff with ease.
    Heck, with a nice tonneau cover you even run a big ol' wing at the back.

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    Senior Member slodrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird View Post
    I vote for cage and converting it to a pickup at the same time.
    Why?
    Not entirely sure, I always thought that turning an ex-police car into a pickup would be pretty cool and in your case will swallow every bit of track gear, extra wheels and all the rest of your stuff with ease.
    Heck, with a nice tonneau cover you even run a big ol' wing at the back.
    It's funny you say that.. I first bought one of these cars planning to put the engine and trans in my f150 but by the time I got the thing home I didn't want to drive the truck anymore. So the car became my work truck.. I put a hitch receiver on it and built a rack that fit in the receiver, one for the front that used the push bar brackets, and a bar over the roof where the police light bar had been (these cars have solid B pillars and roof skins), all super easy to take off and throw in the trunk.

    Actually making it into a pickup would be an interesting way to lighten it up but I typically think of a truck as having ground clearance and the ability to haul weight and stiff rear springs are a big no-no for a front heavy track car.. I already went off turn 1 sideways at about 80 once and I don't want to try that again..

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    Senior Member slodrew's Avatar
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    http://www.trackhq.com/Banners/yellowsitesponsor.gif Blackbird's Avatar
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    Rough photochop.

    crownvicracepickup.jpg

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    That would be awesome! It may be harder to get power down though, taking a bunch of weight off the rear wheels. You'd need to move the motor to the back seat.
    '99 miata

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    Senior Member slodrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robburgoon View Post
    We want to know everything, especially how low you got with weight reduction.
    Who is we, and what makes you think I've done any weight reduction? I thought you'd be more interested in how I got negative camber with my solid rear axle or how I did the jack bolts in the back for quick trackside ride height adjustments..

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    Senior Member robburgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slodrew View Post
    Who is we, and what makes you think I've done any weight reduction? I thought you'd be more interested in how I got negative camber with my solid rear axle or how I did the jack bolts in the back for quick trackside ride height adjustments..
    I'm guessing I'm not the only one that is intrigued by a v8 rwd car such a staggering number of donors out there.

    Weight is the #1 enemy of a track car. That and marriage. How much weight you manage to shed from the car is arguably more important than anything else.

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    Senior Member slodrew's Avatar
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    Right.. I've thought about it a lot and if I replaced all the glass with lexan, gutted it out completely, caged it, and made carbon fiber body panels for it it still wouldn't be light lol.. but these crown vics are the last full frame, front engine, rear wheel drive ever produced. 2003 and later have an aluminum crossmember with rack and pinion steering and unequal length A-arms that work pretty good, are very durable, easy to work on, and best of all, cheap! It's too bad they don't let them run dirt track.. you can't kill these things.. the computer will shut it down to four cylinders (so you can get it off the roadway) and then shuts it down completely before it gets hot enough to seriously damage anything if you keep driving it

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    Administrator ucfbrett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slodrew View Post
    I thought you'd be more interested in how I got negative camber with my solid rear axle or how I did the jack bolts in the back for quick trackside ride height adjustments..

    OK, now this I gotta see.

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    Senior Member slodrew's Avatar
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    To get the negative camber I just cranked up my might welder and threw some big fat beads on the tops of the axle tubes on the outboard sides of the spring perches. The first time I did was on a Toyota pickup and it was purely accidental.. this time I actually used a gauge and got both sides at just about one degree negative..

    The jack bolts I just bought some jack bolts lol with nuts and welded the nuts right in the center of the upper spring perches and cut some holes going into the trunk directly above the nuts to drop the bolts through. Then used a shorter spring and the spring perches that are made to fit on them ball end bolts.. stuff I came up with browsing speedway motors online..

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    Senior Member Gian's Avatar
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    I've done the Camber on stick axles the same way ad found it the same way too.
    slodrew likes this.
    That's not a Typo, I just can't spell no so well.

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    Senior Member robburgoon's Avatar
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    The camber, what's going on there, is it shortening the top of the tube somehow?

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    Senior Member slodrew's Avatar
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    When the weld cools it shrinks.. some guys just use a torch but you have to heat a lot bigger area and get it cherry red. I didn't even drain the oil out of it when I did mine.

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