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Thread: Ford GT350R thread

  1. #321
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    I saw that. Can you tell me why the big difference in front toe btween R and non-R. Thanks.
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  2. #322
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    toe-IN improves turn-in sharpness and response while toe-out improves front grip mid-exit. Differences in balance, setup, tire, and downforce drive the alignment differences.
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    The GT350 has magneride shocks right? Tell us about those? Where do you think they place in shock world? Better than any nonadjustable? Like an adjustable shock with a brain? More electronics to fail?????

  4. #324
    Chest hair required Olitho's Avatar
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    I think William has an admission to make....
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    To the right of The Sheriff. Isn't everyone?

  5. #325
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olitho View Post
    I think William has an admission to make....
    since the title says GT350R, I felt so inadequate with a GT350. Billy kept yapping away how the R is better than a Pagani (that's what I think he said)... couldn't resist when one came up for sale. Gotta put up my grabber blue GT350 for sale now.
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  6. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
    The GT350 has magneride shocks right? Tell us about those? Where do you think they place in shock world? Better than any nonadjustable? Like an adjustable shock with a brain? More electronics to fail?????
    All of them except the rare "base" 2015-2016 GT350s. They're great technology that allows you to have your cake and eat it to. They respond quickly and are 'active' to improve ride quality, especially when tired into more sensors that can sense pot-holes or steering actions -which is something a traditional damper is incapable of. Their biggest downside is they are heavy and temperature sensitive. Due to these limitations, a traditional damper would still be better for racing applications. Or you can go with the extremely consistent and accurate Dynamic Suspension Spool Valves (DSSV) used on F1, LMP1, GTE, GT3, LMP2, Ford GT, Z28, ZL1 1LE, Pagani, and more street cars every day which are far better for motorsports use

    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    since the title says GT350R, I felt so inadequate with a GT350. Billy kept yapping away how the R is better than a Pagani (that's what I think he said)... couldn't resist when one came up for sale. Gotta put up my grabber blue GT350 for sale now.
    Don't swap out the wheels!!! They're worth 1sec on track and a massive amount of FEEL.

  7. #327
    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
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    Really?? Billy please explain. Isn't the R a rear seat delete, carbon fiber wheels, and A/C delete? Can william do alll those things with his GT350??

  8. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
    Really?? Billy please explain. Isn't the R a rear seat delete, carbon fiber wheels, and A/C delete? Can william do alll those things with his GT350??
    A/C delete is on the "base" GT350R. Most cars sold have the optional "Electronics Package" that has AC, big touch screen nav, etc... R has a resonator delete, different springs, bars, splitter, wing, no rear seats, and some small engine stuff.

    Front splitter is ~$1K, rear wing is $6-10K, wheels are $10-15K. Would be a far better investment to have a serialized "R" than to try to piece one together. Plus that wing is damn near impossible to get

    Last edited by Stuntman; 10-12-2017 at 04:14 PM.

  9. #329
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuntman View Post
    Don't swap out the wheels!!! They're worth 1sec on track and a massive amount of FEEL.
    you say that like you drive for a factory team.......

    CF wheels is the first thing to come off the car. I want to be able to hit the curb / apex instead of driving 3 feet away from it !!
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  10. #330
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuntman View Post
    Front splitter is ~$1K, rear wing is $6-10K, wheels are $10-15K. Would be a far better investment to have a serialized "R" than to try to piece one together.
    what Billy the richdude failed to mention is you can't get a R anywhere close to MSRP. so while GT350R is "only" $8k more in MSRP, in practice it is ~$25k+ more.
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  11. #331
    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    what Billy the richdude failed to mention is you can't get a R anywhere close to MSRP. so while GT350R is "only" $8k more in MSRP, in practice it is ~$25k+ more.
    All those electric cars you got nearly free earned you the R. So...It's is all good! Congrats!
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    you say that like you drive for a factory team.......

    CF wheels is the first thing to come off the car. I want to be able to hit the curb / apex instead of driving 3 feet away from it !!
    Climb the curbs, drop tires in the holes on the back side of them too, you're not going to break the carbon wheel. If you drive like a hack on the street and get some roadrash on the rim lip on the side of a parking curb, that's easily repairable by a guy in NorCal.

    You bought a $70K mustang Mr richguy. I'm sure you can afford a few hundred $ to fix a wheel if you curb it on the street. I really don't think you're going to damage one on the track. But then again, what do I know?

  13. #333
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    To answer my rhetorical question, the guys who make your wheels think I have more seat time on carbon wheels than anyone on the planet.

    It's really a shame to see all these R owners store their carbon wheels. It's such a revolutionary technology and crucial part of what makes an R special. It's worth ~1 second on track, improves tire wear, and does wonders for steering feel.

    Taking the R wheels off would be like removing the FPC 5.2L Voodoo for a standard 5.0L, or removing the carbon wing for a base spoiler, or owning a track car and never taking it to the track. What's the point?

    Carbon wheels ARE REPAIRABLE for a reasonable price. Most damage will only be cosmetic since they are EXTREMELY strong. You're not going to crack a spoke or barrel. Cars have hit guardrails and rolled numerous times and the carbon wheels remained in drivable condition. You're not going to break one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Loose Caboose View Post
    I've been watching developments in the GT because I am thinking about racing one. The forums seem to think the hot ticket is not the performance package big brembo brakes because you are stuck with more weight and rotaing mass of larger rotor exactly what the CF wheels of the 350R reduce. People say the standard 4 pot brakes are plenty with race pads and ducts and you can then use 18" wheels and have cheaper and more plentiful race tire options. The 6 pot brembos require the 19" wheel. So if building a track car you save $4k by not doing the performance package which really appears to be 90% the big brakes.

  16. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
    I've been watching developments in the GT because I am thinking about racing one. The forums seem to think the hot ticket is not the performance package big brembo brakes because you are stuck with more weight and rotaing mass of larger rotor exactly what the CF wheels of the 350R reduce. People say the standard 4 pot brakes are plenty with race pads and ducts and you can then use 18" wheels and have cheaper and more plentiful race tire options. The 6 pot brembos require the 19" wheel. So if building a track car you save $4k by not doing the performance package which really appears to be 90% the big brakes.
    You can fit some 18" wheels over the 15" PP brakes. You can also get a lighter 2-pc rotor to help offset that weight (which should be done anyway on a 'race' car). But then again, you can also go to a lighter 2pc rotor on the smaller standard GT brakes.

    What kind of racing are you going to do? What kind of vehicle weight are you targeting? What kind of tracks are you going to? If you're going to any decent track with heavy braking zones, I would easily opt for the GTPP 6piston brakes over the standard 4-pistons. There's a reason we migrated to 15" rotors back on the S197 which weighed 3,300lbs without driver (3,600-3,650lbs with fuel and driver). I think the 4-pistons with race pads and cooling would be fine for you average joe track day guy, but not competitive racing where you're braking at the limit repeatedly for a 30+ minute race.
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  17. #337
    http://www.trackhq.com/Banners/yellowsitesponsor.gif emilio700's Avatar
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    We did some design studies to try to create an 18" 6UL that would fit around the 6pot Brembo / 15.4" rotors on the GT350. We decided there would be too many compromises in the design and utility of the wheel to make it worth while. Beyond that, 19" is not quite the tire choice wasteland is was a few years ago.
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  18. #338
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
    The forums seem to think the hot ticket is not the performance package .................... People say the standard ..............
    I've read some of that too on Mustang forum, but when I looked up how they did in lap time or race standings. I won't be taking up on their advice....
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  19. #339
    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuntman View Post
    I think the 4-pistons with race pads and cooling would be fine for you average joe track day guy, but not competitive racing where you're braking at the limit repeatedly for a 30+ minute race.
    Yeah, I'm finding compromises for all the cars I might race. I'm in SCCA T2 so cars are equalized into big heavy pigs with restrictor plates and DOT-R tires like everything is 3200-3800lbs! Amazingly, an old C5Z06 like mine won the Runoffs at Indy last week. The C5 is still competitive and either doesn't have a lot of compromises or I have just learned to live with them over a decade of racing it in T1/T2. I'm looking at porsches, mustangs, BMW's for the class and my old C5Z still checks all the boxes great brakes etc. I'm just a little bored of it.
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