+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
Results 41 to 48 of 48
Like Tree41Likes

Thread: What's needed for c5 z06 track prep?

  1. #41
    JJ1
    JJ1 is offline
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    542
    Liked
    174 times

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by redtopz View Post
    You only want to keep the car for a year? I would look for one that has already been track prepped and try to get a deal on it. That's going to be a lot of effort for a 1 year car IMO. If you are going to swap brake calipers, I would not go C6Z. Choose an aftermarket brand instead. Ideally with 14" 2 piece rotors. Also, you can get away without a tranny cooler if you don't use 2nd gear. Once you start using 2nd, the tranny will overheat in my experience.
    Keeping in mind I'll be using NT01s as opposed to A7s, you don't think c6z will cut it? Those are about 1500 new with pads and SS pistons from DRM. Next is AP sprint kit for $2600 but they use the same diameter and thickness rotor as the c6. Than after that I'm looking at 3500+... I appreciate the advice I just want to clarify that your considering this being a hard driven HPDE car on Nittos vs a race car on Hoosiers. But I certainly would rather spend more upfront than spend twice. Or I'll realize s2000 is the answer for me.

  2. #42
    http://www.trackhq.com/Banners/yellowsitesponsor.gif emilio700's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    3,403
    Liked
    2099 times

    Default

    The S2000 doesn't handle nearly as well nor is as fast as a C5 or C6 but they are cheaper to set up and run. The AP2 can be made to handle really well with little more than some sport springs, big front bar and alignment. Beyond that you can run no extra coolers, stock radiator.
    Good pads cost about 60% of what the Vette pads do and they'll last almost twice as long. The AP1 is kinda evil in its limit behavior, requiring rear bump steer correction and a smaller rear bar to go with the big front.

    If you are dead set on a Vette, I would strongly encourage you to consider lower grip tires like the normal 200tw in OEM size. Not the RE71R or Rival-S "Super" 200tw's. This makes it safer by keeping speeds down a bit, lower cooling requirements and is also easier logistically.
    Overall a C5Z makes more sense than the C6Z even though it needs big brakes IMO. Cheaper up front (like 50%), depreciation plateau'd, more robust engine and a tick slower which reduces chances of damage/injury of you make a big mistake at the wrong time.
    WWW.949RACING.COM
    SuperMiata

    Aside from their cost I never understood why people race them.
    But obviously I just dont get it. -fatbillybob

  3. #43
    JJ1
    JJ1 is offline
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    542
    Liked
    174 times

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
    The S2000 doesn't handle nearly as well nor is as fast as a C5 or C6 but they are cheaper to set up and run. The AP2 can be made to handle really well with little more than some sport springs, big front bar and alignment. Beyond that you can run no extra coolers, stock radiator.
    Good pads cost about 60% of what the Vette pads do and they'll last almost twice as long. The AP1 is kinda evil in its limit behavior, requiring rear bump steer correction and a smaller rear bar to go with the big front.

    If you are dead set on a Vette, I would strongly encourage you to consider lower grip tires like the normal 200tw in OEM size. Not the RE71R or Rival-S "Super" 200tw's. This makes it safer by keeping speeds down a bit, lower cooling requirements and is also easier logistically.
    Overall a C5Z makes more sense than the C6Z even though it needs big brakes IMO. Cheaper up front (like 50%), depreciation plateau'd, more robust engine and a tick slower which reduces chances of damage/injury of you make a big mistake at the wrong time.
    I tracked an S2k for 5 or 6 years and love them. It's definitely the cheaper and easiest choice. But I'd like something different and wouldn't mind something that's incredibly fast.
    As far as c6z vs c5z, I am not considering a c6z. I was just talking about using c6z front brakes on a c5z for a cheaper BBK option if they would work well using NT01s on a HPDE c5z.
    I am committed to using NT01s on whatever car I get. They're cheap, come in good sizes, don't heat cycle out bad and streetable.

    BTW, do you still offer your wheels in corvette sizes? I didn't see them on your site.

  4. #44
    http://www.trackhq.com/Banners/yellowsitesponsor.gif emilio700's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    3,403
    Liked
    2099 times

    Default

    We have yet to offer Corvette fitments. It is something we are currently working on it. Next in line.
    redtopz likes this.
    WWW.949RACING.COM
    SuperMiata

    Aside from their cost I never understood why people race them.
    But obviously I just dont get it. -fatbillybob

  5. #45
    Spec Backhoe Champion redtopz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,215
    Liked
    949 times

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JJ1 View Post
    Keeping in mind I'll be using NT01s as opposed to A7s, you don't think c6z will cut it? Those are about 1500 new with pads and SS pistons from DRM. Next is AP sprint kit for $2600 but they use the same diameter and thickness rotor as the c6. Than after that I'm looking at 3500+... I appreciate the advice I just want to clarify that your considering this being a hard driven HPDE car on Nittos vs a race car on Hoosiers. But I certainly would rather spend more upfront than spend twice. Or I'll realize s2000 is the answer for me.
    Personally, I would run the stock C5 brakes with upgraded lines/pads/fluid/coolers as long as I could get away with it. Then if I decided they weren't cutting it I would buy Stoptechs or AP. C6Z calipers might look better on paper, but they really aren't very good. The limiting factor with the stock brakes is heat dissipation to start with. 2 piece rotors with aluminum hats and spindle ducts blowing air on the rotors make a pretty big difference. Pad choice will make a difference. With NT01's go with something with moderate friction and easy on rotors. Going to a 14" 2 piece rotor pretty much solves the heat issues, but like I said there's no way I would spend money on C6Z brakes if I was going to upgrade. Hubs will be an issue also, but you can get some cheaper SKF hubs that are better than stock but not as expensive as the heavy duty versions. I think the C5Z is one of the best cars out there for the track. They just handle really well and are easy to make super fast and they are so cheap compared to anything else as fast. The weight distribution is basically 50/50 front to rear in these cars with some simple mods.
    bawareca and JJ1 like this.
    99 C5 corvette SCCA GT2
    99 Supermiata "Super"

  6. #46
    fe4
    fe4 is offline
    Member fe4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    96
    Liked
    23 times

    Default

    To repeat some earlier posts, what you need really depends on the time of year and what you want out of the car. During warmer days I am mostly worried about coolant temperature running away.

  7. #47
    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,621
    Liked
    1209 times

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
    Drive it like Bill or Oli can and you will not. I think you should add a front BBK with good ducting at the very least.
    I disagree. I was so happy when I finally got fast enough to destroy my pads and rotors as fast as the rest of Oli's pre-2012 T1 racers. Stoptech design their T1 kit on my C5Z. Rotors now lasted 1 year and pads about 3 weekends compared to stock caliper changes annually, rotors every 3 days due to cracking, and pads every weekend at 3180lbs and about 380RWHP.
    BBK's are cool and all but Tway proved you could be just as fast holding several track records and winning lots of T1 races on C6 calipers with some minor mods. He did not brake any less deep than any other T1 driver and he was a threat whenever he raced. He had a higher consumables rate but he also did not spend $5k for a BBK set up. $5k is a lot of disposables and you will never spend that much in 10 HPDE's. Heck even after all these years of racing I doubt I have recovered that money. But in racing you never add up the costs. Just write the checks and move on or you will stop the sport.

  8. #48
    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,621
    Liked
    1209 times

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fe4 View Post
    To repeat some earlier posts, what you need really depends on the time of year and what you want out of the car. During warmer days I am mostly worried about coolant temperature running away.
    Rondavis radiator with integrated oil cooler on right side you can run the car in the hotest weather. I even still have a working A/C condenser blocking my radiator. Yes my racecar has working A/C. I hate the heat and I still needed lots of lead to make weight for my class.
    bawareca likes this.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts