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Thread: What Brand Oil Do you Use? What is Best?

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    Track Whore Pure EvoIX's Avatar
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    Default What Brand Oil Do you Use? What is Best?

    I found some VERY VERY good information about oil. This guy tested over 44 different brand/weights/types of oil. Too bad he didnt include more of the AMSOIL oils in there as well.
    Motor Oil Wear Test Results

    It is very scientific in his testing and procedures. Only thing I could see making it better is making it a double blind test. So no ones knows what brand of oil it is until AFTER all tests have been completed and the bottle is revealed.

    Right now I am using Royal Purple HPS 20w50, but I am thinking of making a change. I did notice an increase in lifter tick noise and other noises from engine during cold starts. It goes away after engine warms up to operating temperatures. I believe those Racing oils with high zinc and phosphorus is "not street legal" and not recommended because it damages the catalytic converters, but that is a non-issue for me and probably alot of people as most likely 90% already deleted it. So Racing oil/Street oil doesnt really matter for street. What I do care about is their performance and wear protection on track. The ability for the oil to still perform and not break down during HIGH oil temps, high engine temps, and sustained high rpms is important.


    I will go ahead and copy and paste his results here.
    Oil categories:

    *** Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING protection

    *** 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD protection

    *** 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST protection

    *** Below 60,000 psi = UNACCEPTABLE protection



    ********** OUTSTANDING PROTECTION ************


    1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 115,612 psi
    I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification. The bottle says, “No leading synthetic oil provides better wear protection”. For once, a product’s hype turns out to be true.
    zinc = 806 ppm
    phos = 812 ppm
    moly = 66 ppm

    2. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only = 106,505 psi
    zinc = 2642 ppm
    phos = 3489 ppm
    moly = 1764 ppm
    NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

    3. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi
    zinc = 801 ppm
    phos = 842 ppm
    moly = 112 ppm

    4. 0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN = 105,008 psi
    zinc = 824 ppm
    phos = 960 ppm
    moly = 161 ppm


    ******* 10% below number 1 = 104,051 psi ********


    5. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
    zinc = 1669 ppm
    phos = 1518 ppm
    moly = 784 ppm
    NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

    6. 5W50 Motorcraft, API SN = 103,517 psi
    zinc = 606 ppm
    phos = 742 ppm
    moly = 28 ppm

    7. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
    zinc = 1472 ppm
    phos = 1544 ppm
    moly = 3 ppm

    8. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
    zinc = 1180 ppm
    phos = 1112 ppm
    moly = 162 ppm

    9. 5W30 Chevron Supreme conventional, API SN = 100,011 psi
    This one only costs $4.29 per quart.
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    10. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 99,983 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD
    titanium = TBD


    11. 20W50 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 96,514 psi
    zinc = 610 ppm
    phos = 754 ppm
    moly = 94 ppm

    12. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil = 96,470 psi
    zinc = 2207 ppm
    phos = 2052 ppm
    moly = 1235 ppm
    NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

    13. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN = 96,364 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    14. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN = 95,920 psi
    zinc = 877 ppm
    phos = 921 ppm
    moly = 72 ppm

    15. 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 95,717 psi
    zinc = 818 ppm
    phos = 883 ppm
    moly = 90 ppm
    titanium = 44 ppm

    16. 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 Racing Oil = 95,543 psi
    zinc = 743 ppm
    phos = 802 ppm
    moly = 1125 ppm
    NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

    17. 5W20 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,543 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD
    NOTE: Oil numbers 16 and 17 were tested weeks apart, but due to the similarities in their wear scar sizes, their averages ended up the same.

    18. 5W30 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,392 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    19. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil = 95,360 psi
    zinc = 1431 ppm
    phos = 1441 ppm
    moly = 52 ppm

    20. 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,942 psi
    zinc = 969 ppm
    phos = 761 ppm
    moly = 0 ppm

    21. 5W30 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 94,744 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    22. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN = 94,663 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    23. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,460 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    ******** 20% below number 1 = 92,490 psi ********

    24. 5W30 Lucas conventional, API SN = 92,073 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    25. 5W30 O'Reilly (house brand) conventional, API SN = 91,433 psi
    This one only costs $3.99 per quart.
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    26. 5W30 Red Line, API SN = 91,028 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    27. 5W20 Royal Purple API SN = 90,434 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    28. 5W20 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 90,144 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD


    ************ GOOD PROTECTION **********


    29. 30 wt Castrol Heavy Duty conventional, API SM = 88,089
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    30. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil = 86,270 psi
    zinc = 1247 ppm
    phos = 1137 ppm
    moly = 24 ppm

    31. 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 86,034 psi
    I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification.
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    32. 5W30 Royal Purple API SN = 84,009 psi
    zinc = 942 ppm
    phos = 817 ppm
    moly = 0 ppm

    33. 20W50 Royal Purple API SN = 83,487 psi
    zinc = 588 ppm
    phos = 697 ppm
    moly = 0 ppm

    34. 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile, API SN = 83,263 psi
    zinc = 890 ppm
    phos = 819 ppm
    moly = 104 ppm

    35. 0W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 82,867 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    ******** 30% below number 1 = 80,928 psi ********


    **************** MODEST PROTECTION ************

    36. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi
    zinc = 1421 ppm
    phos = 1338 ppm
    moly = 204 ppm
    NOTE: This particular bottle of oil was just opened, but was out of a 3 ˝ year old case.

    37. Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 Nitro 70 Racing Oil (semi-synthetic) = 72,003 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    38. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi
    zinc = 1621 ppm
    phos = 1437 ppm
    moly = 0 ppm

    39. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi
    zinc = 1557 ppm
    phos = 1651 ppm
    moly = 3 ppm

    40. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi
    zinc = 1,133 ppm
    phos = 1,168 ppm
    moly = 83 ppm

    ******** 40% below number 1 = 69,367 psi ********

    41. 5W30 Motorcraft, API SN = 68,782 psi
    zinc = 796 ppm
    phos = 830 ppm
    moly = 75 ppm

    42. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi
    zinc = 1774 ppm
    phos = 1347 ppm
    moly = 189 ppm

    43. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi
    zinc = 1154 ppm
    phos = 1075 ppm
    moly = 0 ppm

    44. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi
    zinc = TBD
    phos = TBD
    moly = TBD

    ******** 50% below number 1 = 57,806 psi ********
    Loose Caboose likes this.
    Zhong (Evo IX) | Angry Panda Racing

    1:53.396 @ BRP CW13 - 11/14/13
    1:47.2xx @ Laguna Seca - 11/28/10
    2:03.026 @ Thill CCW Bypass - 12/20/14
    2:05.100 @ CVR CCW - 1/16/11
    1:58.151 @ CVR CW - 5/5/13
    1:25.56x @ WSIR - 10/13/13
    1:23.128 @ SOW CW - 7/27/14
    1:22.2xx @ SOW CCW - 7/26/14
    1:46.0xx @ ACS Roval - 11/23/14
    1:11.299 @ ACS Infield - 5/18/14

    Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at WSIR
    2nd Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at BRP 13CW

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    Senior Member granth's Avatar
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    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
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    Changing oil before the end of its life is probably much more important that exactly what comes out of the bottle. I would like to see tests on say 3000mile old oil. The vette racecar Diff/trans/motor oil (7.5qts) just cost me $150 bucks and my labor. I got 6 cars and three take about 12 qts of motor oil. Whatever synthetic is "on sale" is more important to me than what brand.
    bellwilliam likes this.

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    Track Whore Pure EvoIX's Avatar
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    Also came across this.


    I change my oil after every 2 events anyways. Not more than 1000 miles per oil change if that. I used to send my oil out for analysis to blackstone laboratories when i do an oil change. That was with Amsoil, but i was getting high oil temps with that brand, so decided to switch.

    And plus I would add about 2-3qts of oil during the 1000miles anyway because my loose engine burns oil. During events it isnt uncommon for me to add at least a qt each day.
    Zhong (Evo IX) | Angry Panda Racing

    1:53.396 @ BRP CW13 - 11/14/13
    1:47.2xx @ Laguna Seca - 11/28/10
    2:03.026 @ Thill CCW Bypass - 12/20/14
    2:05.100 @ CVR CCW - 1/16/11
    1:58.151 @ CVR CW - 5/5/13
    1:25.56x @ WSIR - 10/13/13
    1:23.128 @ SOW CW - 7/27/14
    1:22.2xx @ SOW CCW - 7/26/14
    1:46.0xx @ ACS Roval - 11/23/14
    1:11.299 @ ACS Infield - 5/18/14

    Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at WSIR
    2nd Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at BRP 13CW

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    Track Whore Pure EvoIX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by granth View Post
    So looks like I made a good choice with Royal Purple. I am impressed with the scar left on the bearing. As long as we can assume Royal Purple was not sponsoring this test or this magazine didn't take any money from them or had any stake or affiliation with Royal Purple. If this was truly unbiased, objective, and 3rd-party, then I am impressed.
    Zhong (Evo IX) | Angry Panda Racing

    1:53.396 @ BRP CW13 - 11/14/13
    1:47.2xx @ Laguna Seca - 11/28/10
    2:03.026 @ Thill CCW Bypass - 12/20/14
    2:05.100 @ CVR CCW - 1/16/11
    1:58.151 @ CVR CW - 5/5/13
    1:25.56x @ WSIR - 10/13/13
    1:23.128 @ SOW CW - 7/27/14
    1:22.2xx @ SOW CCW - 7/26/14
    1:46.0xx @ ACS Roval - 11/23/14
    1:11.299 @ ACS Infield - 5/18/14

    Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at WSIR
    2nd Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at BRP 13CW

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    http://www.trackhq.com/Banners/yellowsitesponsor.gif emilio700's Avatar
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    Amsoil in everything except our OS Giken diffs. Those get OSG OS250R 80W250.
    WWW.949RACING.COM
    SuperMiata

    Aside from their cost I never understood why people race them.
    But obviously I just dont get it. -fatbillybob

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    The Real Captain Slow Red_5's Avatar
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    I use LAT racing oil based on a recommendation from my engine builder. The stuff is pretty expensive but they occasionally have free shipping on cases. I'm only on my second case so not too bad considering the cost of the engine. I'm too lazy to send oil out for lab tests, just change it every couple of events. This stuff has a bunch of moly in it and the stuff I've read on Bobistheoilguy.com about LAT oils has been favorable.

    LAT Racing Oils | Best Synthetic Motor Oil, Racing Oil, Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, Gear Oil, Break-In Oils and Engine Oil Additives
    99 Mazda Miata SuperMiata #515 - AKA Sparky SOLD
    '91 Mariner Blue Miata project AKA Napoleon

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    Motor oil is motor oil. Other than buying full synthetic, if you are worrying about this, you have too much time on your hands . . .
    thepass likes this.
    The deposed former Sheriff of trackHQ . . .

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    if you have a car dedicated for track use let alone have time to post on this forum, you have too much time on your hands.

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    enjoys driving fast Jack Olsen's Avatar
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    Oil discussions are a rabbit hole.

    I've never known of anyone who felt they'd lost an engine because of their oil choice.

    That said, I use Brad Penn for the zinc.

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    BMW Master bawareca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Olsen View Post
    I've never known of anyone who felt they'd lost an engine because of their oil choice.
    But it can save one,in my case Motul 10W60 saved my engine from a full meltdown after half lap at 8/10s with no oil pressure whatsoever.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Olsen View Post
    That said, I use Brad Penn for the zinc.
    Speaking of zinc... I'm a fan of the Shell Rotella T6 for the Miatas... higher zinc content in those too, and the HLAs seem to enjoy it (read, quieter for longer periods of times).

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    Senior Member Gian's Avatar
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    Funny, my Dad used Valvoline on everything. So it kind of stuck with me. Unless and engine builder recommends something different. Talking to a lubrication engineer for Yamaha. He told me most all oils are made by the same few refinery's and the additives are the only thing different between brands.
    But that was in the 80's. So I'm sure things have changed a little.

    I Remember ARCO came out with a Synthetic Graphite oil. It was black and any motor that had more then 30k on it would leak. GM Rope seals just wouldn't work for that stuff.

    Also remember trying to break in a motor on synthetic oil when it first came out... found out the hard way (after the 3rd rebuild).
    That's not a Typo, I just can't spell no so well.

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    Senior Member Gian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pure EvoIX View Post
    Also came across this.


    I change my oil after every 2 events anyways. Not more than 1000 miles per oil change if that. I used to send my oil out for analysis to blackstone laboratories when i do an oil change. That was with Amsoil, but i was getting high oil temps with that brand, so decided to switch.

    And plus I would add about 2-3qts of oil during the 1000miles anyway because my loose engine burns oil. During events it isnt uncommon for me to add at least a qt each day.
    A guy named Gary Lynch did that test for me with his product. It is a cool test. Something you can see. Same thing he did too, except he Wiped the surface off and then kept doing the test. Sold me and I'm not one for additives

    PRODUCTS | Lynch Products
    Last edited by Gian; 05-11-2014 at 04:00 PM.
    That's not a Typo, I just can't spell no so well.

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    Oil "tests" and "expert opinions" are a sea of bias and misinformation. Extreme pressure tests (like the OP) to claim "superiority" of one oil over another is BS. Same with 4-ball tests. And don´t get me started with AMSOIL marketing dept.

    The best resource: Bob Is The Oil Guy | The Internet's Number One Motor Oil Site Go there and spend a few days reading. Most exaggerated claims and propaganda are killed quickly since the level of knowledge of the users is quite high.

    My cliff notes on oils for track cars would be: Change often, stay on adequate temperature range to prevent oil chain beakdown, use the lowest viscosity possible given the operating conditions and build tolerances, don´t use additives, use OEM filters, change often.
    Less powah is better

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    I use the Valvoline VR1 conventional 20w50 because of the zinc content and how readily available it is.

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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Two years and 2800 laps later...
    Rent4ring's Suzuki Swift rental car

    it has done 36,875 miles on the Ring. Driven by 457 idiots renting it, over revving (mechanical - missed downshifts, to 8761rpm) few times a week. 600 hours of track driving - equivalent of 24 of T25 hours race.

    it had 58 quarts oil changed. that's equivalent of 14 oil changes. which equates to 2 of 24 hours endurance race per oil change.
    Loose Caboose likes this.
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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    for those of you fancy oil changers that sends oil into Blackstone for oil analysis (I admit I've done it a few times). this is on their FAQ:

    Blackstone Labs

    Q: What's the best oil to use?

    A: Ah, the million dollar question. We are an independent lab, so we don't make recommendations. It has been our experience that oil is oil, and either petroleum or synthetic-based oil will work well for just about any engine.


    Q: Come on, you're holding out on me. I should use synthetic, right?

    A: Buddy, you should use whatever you want. Synthetic oil won't guarantee a longer engine life any more than my eating organic food will guarantee I'll live until I'm 90. We here at Blackstone generally use regular petroleum-based oil because honestly, it works just as well for us.
    Force McCocken and thepass like this.
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    Track Whore Pure EvoIX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    Two years and 2800 laps later...
    Rent4ring's Suzuki Swift rental car

    it has done 36,875 miles on the Ring. Driven by 457 idiots renting it, over revving (mechanical - missed downshifts, to 8761rpm) few times a week. 600 hours of track driving - equivalent of 24 of T25 hours race.

    it had 58 quarts oil changed. that's equivalent of 14 oil changes. which equates to 2 of 24 hours endurance race per oil change.
    This may very well be true for a 1.8L N/A 136hp 2600lb car. It will not be the same for a 3000lb Turbo'd 450whp boosting 28psi on trac with alot more moving parts. So yes, YMMV.

    I guess the obvious takeaway is just to change your oil often. At the same time, we want the oil we are using to hold up during the times we use it like on track. So even if you are gonna change your oil 200miles later, it should not breakdown, cause issues, high oil temps, etc when you are on track.
    bawareca likes this.
    Zhong (Evo IX) | Angry Panda Racing

    1:53.396 @ BRP CW13 - 11/14/13
    1:47.2xx @ Laguna Seca - 11/28/10
    2:03.026 @ Thill CCW Bypass - 12/20/14
    2:05.100 @ CVR CCW - 1/16/11
    1:58.151 @ CVR CW - 5/5/13
    1:25.56x @ WSIR - 10/13/13
    1:23.128 @ SOW CW - 7/27/14
    1:22.2xx @ SOW CCW - 7/26/14
    1:46.0xx @ ACS Roval - 11/23/14
    1:11.299 @ ACS Infield - 5/18/14

    Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at WSIR
    2nd Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at BRP 13CW

  20. #20
    Track Whore Pure EvoIX's Avatar
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    Like a miata can do 25hrs race on same oil with maybe topping up during the race. On the evo, its not gonna survive past the 1st hour even if turning down boost to like 18psi.
    Zhong (Evo IX) | Angry Panda Racing

    1:53.396 @ BRP CW13 - 11/14/13
    1:47.2xx @ Laguna Seca - 11/28/10
    2:03.026 @ Thill CCW Bypass - 12/20/14
    2:05.100 @ CVR CCW - 1/16/11
    1:58.151 @ CVR CW - 5/5/13
    1:25.56x @ WSIR - 10/13/13
    1:23.128 @ SOW CW - 7/27/14
    1:22.2xx @ SOW CCW - 7/26/14
    1:46.0xx @ ACS Roval - 11/23/14
    1:11.299 @ ACS Infield - 5/18/14

    Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at WSIR
    2nd Fastest Limited/Mod Class Evo in Time Attack at BRP 13CW

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