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Thread: New-To-Me 2002 Corvette. HPDE Questions

  1. #141
    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
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    Imo ranger method is not clutch bleeding. You have to use a remote bleeder or get under the car and do it. You can install remote just removing the oem bleed but you need to make s custom tool to tighten the remote bleeder on the t/o bearing. IIRC I cut a socket and welded it to reach in the hole. If you are going to see Oli I can give him this when I see him at our next Majors race in March. Perhaps you get lucky and the remote bleeder you buy has the same size fitting as mine.


    1519098232974-2136035906.jpg
    Last edited by fatbillybob; 02-19-2018 at 08:44 PM.
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  2. #142
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Can I send you a ups call tag ? I would love to get the tool
    Which bleeder did you get ?
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  3. #143
    Senior Member robburgoon's Avatar
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    Hell yeah William. Pretty sharp lookin lap.
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  4. #144
    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
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    I did this over a decade ago. I can't remember the bleeder. I think I bought an early version of this
    C5 TPE's NEW Remote Clutch Bleeder kit (The best on the market!!) - Corvette International

    I would buy someone's bleeder and see how it is set up. You are welcome to the tool assuming the fitting size is right. The link of the improved version looks like it had a longer t/o bearing end and night be installed without spevial tool. Then becausr longet no special tool needed for the hose. My old bleeder has t/o fitting one swadged on the line hence my weird tool to fit over the line and reach into the bellhousr
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  5. #145
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
    I did this over a decade ago. I can't remember the bleeder. I think I bought an early version of this
    C5 TPE's NEW Remote Clutch Bleeder kit (The best on the market!!) - Corvette International
    unfortunately that company went belly up !!

    guess I am gonna wait till I do the clutch to install the bleeder kit.... avoid ACS before that..
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  6. #146
    Chest hair required Olitho's Avatar
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    FatBillyBob got attacked at the BRP Spec Corvette race.

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  7. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
    The advantage to an external cooler is you never have to worry about metal in your cooler if you blow your motor. Many new motors have been lost to not getting all the metal out of the old lines. External cooler you just throw it away. What I do on my internal cooler is have a mesh AN filter on the output side of my cooler but that is an extra $60bucks.
    I'm a little confused here. I hear of a lot of guys going to the Dewitt or Ron Davis radiators with integrated engine oil cooler. Has this really been an issue, especially if one uses a filter?

    Also, of the two radiators (Ron Davis or Dewitt), which one is recommended for track use?
    Last edited by MikeColangelo; 02-20-2018 at 11:55 AM.
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  8. #148
    Chest hair required Olitho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeColangelo View Post
    I'm a little confused here. I hear of a lot of guys going to the Dewitt or Ron Davis radiators with integrated engine oil cooler. Has this really been an issue, especially if one uses a filter?

    Also, of the two radiators (Ron Davis or Dewitt), which one is recommended for track use?
    Both are good for track use.

    I have limited experience with the Dewitts with the integrated oil cooler. For a Spec Corvette it looks to be a good option. I don't think I would use an integrated oil cooler for a 500 RWHP engine though. The whole raidiator would be needed just to cool the water I would think.
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  9. #149
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    in my limited experience in HPDE with this car and Dewitt integrated oil cooler AND AC condenser (big factor imo), is that coolant temp is in control. I haven't seen anything higher than 205F in 80F weather, so I think in 100F weather, it should do just fine with HPDE.
    but oil temp did ran up to 285F at SoW, which isn't a good cooling track. in 100F weather, I expect it to peak around 300F. may or may not be of a concern depending on who you ask.

    for w2w, AC condenser would be removed. Vettes also don't bump draft (fiberglass). I have a feeling Dewitt (with built in oil cooler) should be fine for most Spec Corvette.
    Last edited by bellwilliam; 02-20-2018 at 05:48 PM.
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  10. #150
    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    in my limited experience in HPDE with this car and Dewitt integrated oil cooler AND AC condenser (big factor imo), is that coolant temp is in control. I haven't seen anything higher than 205F in 80F weather, so I think in 100F weather, it should do just fine with HPDE.
    but oil temp did ran up to 285F at SoW, which isn't a good cooling track. in 100F weather, I expect it to peak around 300F. may or may not be of a concern depending on who you ask.

    for w2w, AC condenser would be removed. Vettes also don't bump draft (fiberglass). I have a feeling Dewitt (with built in oil cooler) should be fine for most Spec Corvette.
    Despite your lack of vette knowledge your racing knowledge and experience makes you right on target in your vette evaluation. You are correct. FWIW with or without the condenser I see 285F on oil routinely. I have raced this car so long I don't even watch the temps anymore. The set up of ron davis and internal cooler or radiator with internal cooler equivalent is proven. You can get buy with stock radiator and external cooler too but just. You alluded to that with your statement of water temps being easy to control. It is the oil temps that are higher. A higher viscosity oil and more careful warm-up can solve some issues.

    I did the remote bleeder so long ago I really can't help much. I will say my bleeder and my tool go with this type of 1 piece remote bleeder hose. Corvette Remote Clutch Bleeder - Stainless Steel : 1997-2004 C5 & Z06

    If you get this kind of remote bleeder https://www.ebay.com/i/253355400614?chn=ps you see the fitting that goes on the T/O bearing. If the fitting is long enough it will give you clearance for the nut on the remote line. You might be able with this style of set-up to use a socket wrench to screw in the fitting and then the nut of the hose might just clear the bellhouse of be accessable. I think that is what the guy who went belly up was trying to make because no one wanted to have to pull the clutch to do this job.

    I don't know if either I have posted is any good. I just wanted to show you 2 common styles of bleeder. Either way you can buy one and try to install and if you can't save it when you do the clutch R&R.
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  11. #151
    Not Certified Slow SDSUsnowboards's Avatar
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    The Miata sold, and now my financial situation is not as urgent as before.

    I've executed on the Dewitt dual purpose radiator and the GM hardlines. I have also purchased the Improved Racing drop-in oil pan baffles.

    Once I get the car back I'm going to take a closer look at the hubs and wheel liners. I want to see if I can make the brake cooking in the front more efficient, and rig up something for the rear.

    I've heard that the ABS control module gets cooked and fails under racing conditions. Has anyone piped air to it, or is just considered a disposable part?
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  12. #152
    Faster than Oli jimt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDSUsnowboards View Post
    I've heard that the ABS control module gets cooked and fails under racing conditions. Has anyone piped air to it, or is just considered a disposable part?
    I've never had any issues with post 2001 Z06 ABS cars. I understand the pre-2001 modules did have problems.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimt View Post
    I've never had any issues with post 2001 Z06 ABS cars. I understand the pre-2001 modules did have problems.
    Thank god. All these little things were beginning to add up, and I was getting worried.
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  14. #154
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    The later models do have ABS module issues (the ECBM part, not the hydraulics part). Mine went out in my car. Based on the root cause analysis discussion on CF, in warm and sunny SoCal it might not be such a common issue.

    If you have basic electronics skills it can be a $0 fix though, which is nice.

    By the way, if you do have the module off the car and on the bench for repair, I do not recommend finding your way onto the track with race pads in the back and street pads in the front. The brake bias becomes quite exciting.
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    What's the word on aftermarket engine mounts for a tracked C5Z?

    Are they worth the hassle/would I lose much without them for HPDE-style driving? Are they legal for Spec Corvette? (I haven't seen anything about engine mounts in the rules).

    The OEM mounts in my 02 Z06 seem to be fine. Car is low mileage so I'm assuming they still have a lot of life left.
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  16. #156
    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
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    Motor mounts, ABS...don't go looking for problems. The C5 is a robust platform. The highlights mentioned in prior posts like cooling is all you need for pain free tracking.

    Factory MM by the way are perfect because they allow the right sized AN lines to pass for your oil cooler. Most use custom AN lines from oil cooler block to internal or external cooler. Other aftermarket MMs can be too high or too low causing reported new clearance issues. A low MM is great for CG but is not enough to make a laptime difference IMO but add to clearance issues. But in an all out build every bit counts so more solid lower CG MM is a good idea and you work around clearance. Don't go more solid on the MM without going more solid on the transaxle mounts...it never ends...
    Last edited by fatbillybob; 02-23-2018 at 08:17 AM.

  17. #157
    Spec Backhoe Champion redtopz's Avatar
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    I raced T1 in a C5Z for a few years using the Dewitts radiator with integrated oil cooler. Even on 100+ degree days at BRP and big willow I had no issues. But I never ran high viscosity oil. These engines were designed for 30 weight oil and if you go with higher viscosity it will just run hotter. I mixed Amsoil signature 5w30 oil with their 10w30 racing oil 50/50 (and that's what I still do).

    For motor mounts, there are a lot of varying opinions but here's what I have concluded after some hard lessons. Keep both the front and rear somewhat compliant for heat expansion of the driveline and vibration control. Solid mounts only cause problems. I've settled on urethane mounts sandwiched between aluminum plates both front and back. No issues.

  18. #158
    Chest hair required Olitho's Avatar
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    We are allowing some replacement aftermarket items in Spec Corvette. Motor mounts is one of them. Here is a good alternative that is allowable. https://amtmotorsport.com/products/c5-c7-motor-mounts

    If your C5 ABS module does fail and you don't want to do the electronics repair yourself you can send it here for $150. ABSFixer
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  19. #159
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redtopz View Post
    But I never ran high viscosity oil. These engines were designed for 30 weight oil and if you go with higher viscosity it will just run hotter.
    thanks. that's what I need to do. I was running heavier weight oil 5w-50. should run a lighter weight oil to reduce heat....
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  20. #160
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    The way I see it with oil is that there's a viscosity your engine likes. Oil changes viscosity with temperature. So if you have a big effective oil cooler, run lower weight oils. If you're at 300* oil temps, maybe a thicker weight would protect the bearings better, but like Bill says, that will increase temps futher

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