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Thread: let's talk about warning lights, WP, WT, OT, OP.......

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    the link I gave is a oil pressure warning. isn't it too late if oil pressure light comes on, and you are in the middle of the race, you have to take few seconds to sort out what the light means ?
    You would want the car turn off on you in the middle of a corner or a change of direction? I don't.

    If you're super worried about it, any light you lift off and turn off the car might want to wire the dash to stay on tho if you go this route.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    am I the only one on Trackhq running water pressure warning light ?
    like I said, this light has saved me at least 3 engines.....
    We're not. You don't see this on water temps too?

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    Senior Member fatbillybob's Avatar
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    Interesting concept I have never thought about. Choice one is a warning light/kill switch killing the motor to save it, despite being in a less than ideal place on track. Choice two is blowing up said motor and oiling oneself and everyone else. I would take the cutout switch. I think william's engine saving cutout is a really smart idea.

    William why a water pressure guage? Is this because you lost coolant 3 times? I don't think this should be a common failure on a well maintained car.

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    Quote Originally Posted by krazik View Post
    In AIM dash you can set a minimum lap time and if you're below it turns on an alarm light. I'm sure it could be fitted to a relay and horn
    My horn relay would burn out on the first session.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
    Interesting concept I have never thought about. Choice one is a warning light/kill switch killing the motor to save it, despite being in a less than ideal place on track. Choice two is blowing up said motor and oiling oneself and everyone else. I would take the cutout switch. I think william's engine saving cutout is a really smart idea.
    My point is both driving it to a safe place, but if I was in a corner at the limit full/heavy throttle and the engine turned off, it could get real hairy real quick. It's gonna be the same as lifting at the wrong point. At least if I have to lift, my brain knows it's coming and steers into it.
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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krazik View Post
    My point is both driving it to a safe place, but if I was in a corner at the limit full/heavy throttle and the engine turned off, it could get real hairy real quick. It's gonna be the same as lifting at the wrong point. At least if I have to lift, my brain knows it's coming and steers into it.
    How is the switch turning off fuel pump different (driving wise) than say a rod decides to stick out side of the block ?
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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
    William why a water pressure guage? Is this because you lost coolant 3 times? I don't think this should be a common failure on a well maintained car.
    Think how many blown head gasket out there. All caused my some kind of coolant failure.

    1. Bad radiator cap - common in Miata world. It takes a while, but if you don't keep any eye on it. Warning light will flicker once, then more often.
    2. Stone piercing radiator. Temp gauge will take a lap to come up. Warning light will kick in right away.
    3. Hose failure - it could be slow or fast leak. Either way you will catch it fast with warning light.
    There are a ton of situations that temp gauge won't pick up for a while, but pressure light will
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    Track Whore Pure EvoIX's Avatar
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    I need to install these idiot/warning lights for my car. Anyone know how to do it? I have those DEFI BF Imperial gauges (boost, EGT, Oil Temp, Oil Press). I also need to buy a water temp gauge. Need to rig a light for AFRs going out of range during WOT. The Defi's do have a small 5mm light that goes off if it goes beyond or below a certain temperature/pressure, but you would have to look down at the gauge. It also has a sound that goes off. With the helmet on and full throttle, you can't really hear it unless you are braking into a slow corner or if you happen to glance at gauges on a long straight. I want to be able to stare straight ahead and have light go off just above my front dash. I found that DEFI has this indicator you can buy that gets the feed off the sensors and hooks up to the main control unit and if one gauge goes off, the main light will go off, but it doesnt tell you which one it is. That light basically means...ehhh...something is not right...look at gauges now and back off while you are at it.

    I don't have any electrical engineering background or electrical expertise unless its simple/basic. I should also get a batt voltage gauge while im at it. I did have an alternator fail on me while on track last year. That wasn't fun. Heat killed it.

    I am also getting really really stupid high oil temps. I set warning to 275F. I would love to see it around 255F or so during hot lapping, but it came on, like after one hot lap. I had an engine failure, but not sure if oil temps had anything to do with it. Cyl 4 took a ****. Damage was instant and not over time. Spark plug electrode and tip left its home and mosh pit in cyl 4. Also a really really burnt exhaust valve made from inconel in the head. Cyl 1,2,3 were perfect. Bearings were perfect. Other Plugs, pistons,valves looked really good. Sigh...
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    How is the switch turning off fuel pump different (driving wise) than say a rod decides to stick out side of the block ?
    It's not that different. But I wouldn't try to create that case on it's own.
    Last edited by krazik; 05-23-2013 at 09:02 PM.

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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pure EvoIX View Post
    I need to install these idiot/warning lights for my car. Anyone know how to do it? I have those DEFI BF Imperial gauges (boost, EGT, Oil Temp, Oil Press). I also need to buy a water temp gauge. Need to rig a light for AFRs going out of range during WOT. The Defi's do have a small 5mm light that goes off if it goes beyond or below a certain temperature/pressure, but you would have to look down at the gauge. It also has a sound that goes off. With the helmet on and full throttle, you can't really hear it unless you are braking into a slow corner or if you happen to glance at gauges on a long straight. I want to be able to stare straight ahead and have light go off just above my front dash. I found that DEFI has this indicator you can buy that gets the feed off the sensors and hooks up to the main control unit and if one gauge goes off, the main light will go off, but it doesnt tell you which one it is. That light basically means...ehhh...something is not right...look at gauges now and back off while you are at it.

    I don't have any electrical engineering background or electrical expertise unless its simple/basic. I should also get a batt voltage gauge while im at it. I did have an alternator fail on me while on track last year. That wasn't fun. Heat killed it.

    I am also getting really really stupid high oil temps. I set warning to 275F. I would love to see it around 255F or so during hot lapping, but it came on, like after one hot lap. I had an engine failure, but not sure if oil temps had anything to do with it. Cyl 4 took a ****. Damage was instant and not over time. Spark plug electrode and tip left its home and mosh pit in cyl 4. Also a really really burnt exhaust valve made from inconel in the head. Cyl 1,2,3 were perfect. Bearings were perfect. Other Plugs, pistons,valves looked really good. Sigh...
    Do what Gordon (he is the expert) does, keep an eye on individual EGT. Especially on a turbo car. But you really should wire all sensors to your ecu, then have them output it to a panel like IQ3. Iq3 can be programmed to flash warning. Ecu can cut timing or fuel if any of predetermined parameter is off.
    Last edited by bellwilliam; 05-23-2013 at 09:34 PM.
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  11. #31
    Track Whore Pure EvoIX's Avatar
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    I'll ask the shop if its possible to wire DEFI sensors to ECU/harness and/or if they can just trigger/cut timing and/or fuel/lower boost if any of them are too high/out of range. IQ3 is like what $1200+

    The easier/simpler the setup and less figuring out I need to do the better. lol.
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  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    Hose failure
    Sometimes a gauge isn't needed.

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    I'm sold on coolant pressure idiot light/gauge. I have never seen a car with one. How are you rigging it? did you tap say into a t-stat bleeder screw hole or ????? Where do you get the pressure transducer and circuitry to turn on the light? I don't think water pressure is common like an oil temp gauge as an example.

  14. #34
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
    I'm sold on coolant pressure idiot light/gauge. I have never seen a car with one. How are you rigging it? did you tap say into a t-stat bleeder screw hole or ????? Where do you get the pressure transducer and circuitry to turn on the light? I don't think water pressure is common like an oil temp gauge as an example.
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    I guess it is basically a fuel pressure sender (for carburetor cars) but at 3psi ?
    on a Miata, I tap it into heater hose using one of these
    Amazon.com: Auto Meter 2280 Heater Hose Adapter: Automotive
    Last edited by bellwilliam; 05-23-2013 at 11:30 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pure EvoIX View Post
    I'll ask the shop if its possible to wire DEFI sensors to ECU/harness and/or if they can just trigger/cut timing and/or fuel/lower boost if any of them are too high/out of range. IQ3 is like what $1200+

    The easier/simpler the setup and less figuring out I need to do the better. lol.
    IQ3 is a LOT more than $1200 once you figure in all the sensors and the canbus.

  16. #36
    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robburgoon View Post
    IQ3 is a LOT more than $1200 once you figure in all the sensors and the canbus.
    but you don't have to buy all the regular gauges, tach, ot, op, wt, ot, fp, fuel, volt and all warning lights.
    plus IQ3 is a GPS data logger.
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  17. #37
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    Biggest complaint with the IQ3 is only being able to configure 4 warnings. Otherwise works nicely, I put all my sensor inputs to my ecu and display them on the IQ3 via CAN.

  18. #38
    Senior Member robburgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    but you don't have to buy all the regular gauges, tach, ot, op, wt, ot, fp, fuel, volt and all warning lights.
    plus IQ3 is a GPS data logger.
    I guess. I still think you can do it way cheaper with a selection of $20 warning lights and and the stock dash.

    oil temp isn't needed once your car is sorted out. oil pressure is a light, water temp light + gauge ($40), fuel pressure is a light, fuel has a stock gauge, volt can be a light. That's about $100.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by hakeem View Post
    Biggest complaint with the IQ3 is only being able to configure 4 warnings. Otherwise works nicely, I put all my sensor inputs to my ecu and display them on the IQ3 via CAN.
    There are only 4 lights, but you can do up to 8 warnings.
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    dirty smack talker hakeem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Savington View Post
    There are only 4 lights, but you can do up to 8 warnings.
    Hah, I just realized that. For some reason I thought the two warnings per light always had to relate to each other.
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