Suzuki Swift Sport (not a rental)

[petterbw]

Hello everyone.

Thought I might start a thread on my car.
As the title suggests it's a 2007 Suzuki Swift Sport.
It's not a rental car, but it was mainly this article that convinced me to buy one.
Two years and 2800 laps later...
If it can survive being a rental car on the ring, it can survive me
Being my only car, it serves as both a daily and track car, all while returning 30-35 mpg(us)


Mods done:
Rear seat delete
Halfcage
Bilstein B14
Full exhaust

Bought but not yet installed:
Front&rear swaybar
Camberbolts front
Camberplates rear
All suspension bushings
Engine/gearbox mount insert bushings
Rear wing

Here's a couple of pictures from my first (and only) 2 trackdays
swift femmer.jpg

swift3 Roy hansen 20mai.jpg

swift1 Roy hansen 20mai.jpg

swift2 Roy hansen 20mai.jpg

swift gnom3.jpg

swift gnom2.jpg

swift gnom1.jpg


And here's a video of my fastest lap from the second trackday
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHcHxVf0eUY
(borrowed a friends iPhone, thats why it says mx5 on the overlay)

[petterbw]

And this is what my tires look like now
Dented tires.jpg


I'm guessing it's a combination of not enough camber and tires being old
They will be replaced with slightly wider R888R's soon (I will also add camber)

And in case you where wondering, I daily the car with R888

[emilio700]

Several of us made a trip to the Nurburgring a few years ago, and had a chance to drive the Suzuki Swift. We all loved the car. Amazing transmission too. Wish Suzuki had not left the US.

[petterbw]

I used to own a 91 Miata, that i sold to a friend of mine. Will be fun to see how fast I can get it compared to that.
Sadly there isn't an as large modding community for the swift. But then again that will probably keep me from spending too much money on it.......maybe

[deng]

Awesome, I would love to drive a Swift one day.

But then again that will probably keep me from spending too much money on it.......maybe

Haha keep telling yourself that bud! I bought my '17 Yaris thinking the same thing... lol

[Sprinkles]

Great to see another Swift on TrackHQ!

I've been tracking a 2013 Swift for the past two years with my son, steadily developing it and improving lap times.

The three biggest improvements we made to lap times were:

1. R spec tyres. We started with Nitto NT01s. Not ideal for street driving, you might want to consider getting a second set of rims just for the track, they will fit in the back where the seats used to be.
2. Plenty of negative camber. We run 5 degrees at the front and 3 degrees rear (2 degree camber plates are 3 degrees static with the car sitting on the ground).
3. Race front brake pads. Project Mu Club Racers were worth 1.5 seconds per lap at our local.

Some other subtle changes/non changes:

1. You need to correct the front roll centre to reduce body roll. I can see in that photo of the Porsche you have too much body roll.
2. You don't want to go too stiff in your spring rates, 5kg front and 4kg rear is about right. This give more mechanical grip.
3. The stock front sway bar in our car works fine, not sure about the earlier model though. A stiff front sway bar will give you more lateral weight transfer and tend to make the car understeer more.

Other big improvements we made were fitting a 5.1 final drive and a Cusco LSD, which gave the car a lot more acceleration out of corners. Worst mod was a lightweight flywheel, made no difference.

[petterbw]

Hi Sprinkles (have already been creeping through you posts )
I have bilstein pss b14 coilover kit. It is a bit bouncy, but seems fine (atleast for now)

i'm in the process of installing front and rear swaybars and also replacing all the bushings now. But it didn't go exactly to plan....
19417602_10158770869310251_6771541185358612586_o.jpg


Hopefully swaybars will atleast help with the bodyroll
If/when my ball joints fail, i will probably upgrade to the rollcenter adjuster version.

Oh and i'm currently running on R888 but will upgrade to R888R when they are worn out.

[HF-mx5turbo]

The swift is a cool little car, reminded me of my old golf gti when i tried Petters lil'red racer

[petterbw]

Got the subframe back together yesterday. My metalworking friend did one hell of a job fixing it. For good measure he also sandblasted and reinforced my control arms
While waiting for the paint to dry we installed powerflex engine mount insert on the rear engine mount. It was too easy to reach when the subframe was already out of the car...
Also installed camberplates in the rear (camber bolts in the front had already been installed and set to max).
When the car is back together i will get an alignment to reduce toe-in i have a boatload after installing the camber bolts

20170527_133958.jpg
Camber bolt in the front, set to max (Picture taken from before the subframe debacle)



20170627_212600.jpg
Camber plate in the rear


20170627_213103.jpg
Kinda hard to see with fresh black paint but there is a new plate welded to the underside of the control arm. (yes i know it's got paint runs, but i dont care )
Also quite a few goodies in the blurry background



20170627_193243.jpg
Insert bushings from powerflex in the rear engine mount




20170627_193020.jpg
Cleaned and welding ground attached


20170627_193011.jpg
Custom made weld in nut-thingy


20170627_193025.jpg


20170627_202643.jpg
It was welded more after this



20170627_202659.jpg


20170627_212630.jpg


All part got two coats of 2component epoxy primer/filler and then 1 heavy coat of 2component paint.
will give it 24-48 hours to fully cure before we put in the new bushings and install it on the car.


Hopefully the rear bushings won't put up as big of a fight as the front. And if there is time to spare we might start on the battery relocation and custom ram-air box

[Sprinkles]

Good work! If you want more negative camber in the front you can install a second set of camber bolts in the lower strut mounting holes. This setup would allow you to get up to 3 degrees more camber than using straight bolts in the same struts.

[petterbw]

Good work! If you want more negative camber in the front you can install a second set of camber bolts in the lower strut mounting holes. This setup would allow you to get up to 3 degrees more camber than using straight bolts in the same struts.

More camber you say.... hmmmmmmm.... tempting....

What camberplates are you running in the rear? I've got the Greddy ones. it says i will end up with 2.3 degrees camber. https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-gredd...ift-sport.html

[Sprinkles]

We are running R's camber plates:

ZC32S ƒXƒCƒtƒg ƒXƒCƒtƒgƒp�[ƒc : R's [ƒA�[ƒ‹ƒY]

Looking at those ones in your link, I don't understand how the brake pads stay parallel to the rotors. maybe the mounting flange on the 331 is a different design to the 32?

[emilio700]

[SwiftJan]

@ petterbw Do you have a picture of the Swift while not driving? I'm also looking for a Bilstein B14. Wonder about the riding height. Lowering of 10- 30mm isn't that much.

[petterbw]

@ petterbw Do you have a picture of the Swift while not driving?

There is a couple here:
https://m.facebook.com/petterbw/albu...8321253615251/

Can't post pictures from my phone for some reason.

[petterbw]

Engine mount inserts seems to have wiggled it's way into position now. Vibrations are like stock when driving above 2krpm, a hint more when between 1 and 2k. and at idle it is 2hints more
Fixed a rattling interior mirror with som tessa-tape and found 2 loose bolts holding the driver side window. All rattles are gone....for now

The car feels 10 years younger when shifting, and going on and off the gas. Highly recommend this mod
Powerflex blackseries in rear engine mount and gearbox mount. (right engine mount still stock)

[petterbw]

This is going to be a fun one. A&R Motorsports is building a custom splitter for me.
This is just a cardboard template, final version will be made from plywood and fibreglass (and painted black).
Will also make addon cannards or sidepods (or whatever they are called), to prevent drag from air hitting the front wheels.



It's an afterhours project, so it will be slow progress, but I will keep you posted

20170706_220117.jpg


Snapchat-742510241.jpg
The cutout is for the exhaust, it will be filled in by a metal as we didn't want the plywood/resin catching fire #SafetyThird

[Loose Caboose]

Would metal fabrication be more complicated?

[petterbw]

Would metal fabrication be more complicated?

Probably not, but it would be heavier.
Also police in Norway don't like sharp edges. Giving the plywood a rounded over edge makes it a bit more street friendly

The mountings and reinforcements will be aluminium. So there will be some metal fabrication atleast.