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Thread: Motul 600 Vs ATE Brake Fluid - Thoughts?

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    Default Motul 600 Vs ATE Brake Fluid - Thoughts?

    Hey guys just a quick follow up. Getting ready for the track again for the end of this month and I need to flush my brakes.
    I have been running Motul 600 with not issues until the last event.

    I am thinking of trying out ATE Type 200. Dry and Wet temp rating are a little less than Motul but its get just as good reviews. I am unable however to discern if it is synthetic or not.
    Another reason I want to try the ATE is because it comes with yellow and blue which would make it easier to flush ?

    Anyway looking for some thoughts on the ATE vs Motul.

    Thank you

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    Senior Member bellwilliam's Avatar
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    ATE has a lower boiling point. I wouldn't run it especially you stated you are having issue with higher boiling point Motul 600.
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    What I experienced last time at the track is a combination of the pads, worn tires and old fluid I never bleed (3 track evens an no bleeding)

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    w/ STI - keep it simple- stick w/ Motul 600 and bleed often. It's proven to work for this application. It's not too harsh on seals.

    Higher boil point Dot-4 fluids are available (660, Castrol) but are not necessary if you bleed often.

    Note - ATE blue color fluid isn't available in USA (doesn't conform). For the record, it was a marketing gimmick and was no less/more easier to flush.

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    Used to be a big fan of Motul until I tried Project Mu and Castrol fluids. Never looked back

    brake-fluid-copmarison-chart.png
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    70 dollars for 1L ? He'll no. I'm not sponsored lol.
    I learned about the blue not conforming due to its color. Shame.

    So far, no one has run ATE?

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    I've never had a brake fluid issue, but I've always tried to find the highest boiling point possible. It seems like the OP should go for the highest boiling point, too, given the issues you have been having and the weight of an STi.

    I've been using Prospeed RS683 for a couple of years with good results. As the name suggests, the boiling point is 683 degrees, which is the highest I have found.

    Prospeed RS683 Xtreme Performance Brake Fluid™ The world's highest performance DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ucfbrett View Post
    I've never had a brake fluid issue, but I've always tried to find the highest boiling point possible. It seems like the OP should go for the highest boiling point, too, given the issues you have been having and the weight of an STi.

    I've been using Prospeed RS683 for a couple of years with good results. As the name suggests, the boiling point is 683 degrees, which is the highest I have found.

    Prospeed RS683 Xtreme Performance Brake Fluid™ The world's highest performance DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid!
    Brake Fluid, Torque RT700 / Prospeed RS683
    these guys claiming this is same bottle as Torque RT700.
    Last edited by bellwilliam; 08-02-2017 at 09:37 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxSTI View Post
    So far, no one has run ATE?
    I've ran ATE for many years. but this is on a 2,300LB Miata - with driver.
    on heavier car, I've always used Motul. might not have the best spec, but never had issue with it, and easy to find.
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    I also used ATE for years but again, on a 2300 pound Miata. I never had a problem with brake fluid but I also bled my brakes religiously after events.
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    I only use what is needed for the car. No sense spending more. Off the shelf DOT4 has worked fine in the SM's for many years regardless of what pads we've run. We do flush / bleed after every event though. Currently we are using Castrol DOT4 @ $12/qt w/Hawk DTC60/70 pads with no issues. If generating that much heat in the braking system and still having issues in spite of high quality brake fluid I'd seriously consider adding some ducting and/or evaluating the entire system to determine what could be done to lower the brake temp. Extreme temp is the enemy of rotors, calipers, pads, and other components. Whatever you can do to bring the temperatures down will be more than paid back in longer life of all the braking components.
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    Quote Originally Posted by markn View Post
    I only use what is needed for the car.
    This is the best reply! I agree 100%. Some cars need every advantage because their brakes are marginal. Everything is a compromise. We has so much problem with our OEM C5Z06 corvette brakes that when Stoptech made the T1 kit for our cars they overkilled it. My brakes are probably heavier than I need because my maintenance is so low. I'm getting 3 race weekends per set of front pads, rotors 1.5 years, and this whole race season I have not bleed my brakes using cheap O'reilly autoparts Vavoline synthetic brake fluid.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxSTI View Post
    What I experienced last time at the track is a combination of the pads, worn tires and old fluid I never bleed (3 track evens an no bleeding)
    Here in S FL humidity is high, I found a complete flush of the fluid with new fluid (from sealed containers) a day or two before track use prevented any fluid problems. I went a step further and replaced fluid after track use also although I don't think it was really necessary. Our humidity is so much higher year round than many other areas of the country that just replacing fluid AFTER a track event might allow too much time for the fluid to absorb moisture before the next track event lowering the boiling point.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    Brake Fluid, Torque RT700 / Prospeed RS683
    these guys claiming this is same bottle as Torque RT700.
    quoting myself. this looks amazing. $30 a bottle and 683F boiling point. anyone tried it ?
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellwilliam View Post
    quoting myself. this looks amazing. $30 a bottle and 683F boiling point. anyone tried it ?
    Looks like bottles are 1/2 liter so still $60.00 for a little over a quart + shipping.

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    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...pID=BRAKEFLUID
    Pegasus is saying that RS683 (same as RT700) is only 583F and SRF is only 590F. kinda confusing.

    Quote Originally Posted by ITOzann View Post
    Used to be a big fan of Motul until I tried Project Mu and Castrol fluids. Never looked back

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    Castrol SRF. Can last 3-4X longer than most other brake fluids due to its extremely high wet boiling point. It costs more up front but saves in the long run.
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    I have AP 355mm rotors and six piston calipers on the front of my car and I run Motul 600 or 660 and I have never ever felt I was even close to boiling fluid or having a brake issue on my car.

    Are others experiencing problems?
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    I agree that fluid is the 1% solution to braking issues. Like using tire pressures to address a significant handling issue. Most braking issues can be addressed more directly and effectively with other solutions. And frankly I suspect the minor differences with boil points on race fluids are overstated in the real world.

    The stock brembos on the STI are adequate for track-day / time-trial duty (even when hp is boosted), and dont require exotic fluid. I had several thousand track miles on my STI and the brembos were one of the best things about that car. Any compatible brake fluid on this list will do fine. With the STI its far more important to flush fluid more often (every time), not run the pads too low, and contemplate additional cooling solutions as necessary -- than it is with attempting to extend the interval with a more expensive fluid that has a higher dry/wet boiling temp. The hygroscopic wet boil figures are based on 3.7% water by volume. I hope were all more attentive than that for this to be an issue.

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    I also bleed the system after every event and don't hesitate to replace the pads when they get worn. I have been conducting and experiment this season with the rear brakes.

    Normally, I'd replace the rears each winter whether they needed it or not, and it was always not, so this year I left them on. I think I'll get two seasons out of a set of rears.

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