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Thread: brake/clutch bleed tools

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    Default brake/clutch bleed tools

    Getting my wife to help bleed is sometimes like pulling teeth. I recently tried the mittyvac system which pulls from the caliper, but it pulls in air so I don't really like it (good at pulling new fluid through, but impossible to tell when no more air is in the system). I'm now considering the motive kit, but before wasting money on it I'd like to know what you guys think. What's worked best for you?
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    '99 miata

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    Senior Member granth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyeballs View Post
    Getting my wife to help bleed is sometimes like pulling teeth.
    I am in the same "boat" I know the feeling, I used the mittyvac as you said not the best for air IMHO. I would be all ears too for a good easy to use system for one man.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eyeballs View Post
    Getting my wife to help bleed is sometimes like pulling teeth. I recently tried the mittyvac system which pulls from the caliper, but it pulls in air so I don't really like it (good at pulling new fluid through, but impossible to tell when no more air is in the system). I'm now considering the motive kit, but before wasting money on it I'd like to know what you guys think. What's worked best for you?
    I use this and it works well.

    Brake Fluid Bleeder

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    Administrator ucfbrett's Avatar
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    I have the Motive kit and it works great. I had been using just a catch bottle and pumping the pedal by hand by myself. The first time I used a Motive bleeder, I thought to myself, "That's it? That's all you have to do?"

    I wish I had bought it years ago.

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    Sir flink
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    I just use the Motive reservoir cap, attached to my compressor at 5-10 PSI. Fill reservoir, apply pressure, bleed away.
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    RaceTape Ninja Force McCocken's Avatar
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    I have the Motive bleeder and Miata specific caps for the Miata (brake and clutch res). Works fine, but you have to use low pressure or you will pop the reservoirs off the cylinders. On the BMWs, 14psi was no big deal, on the Miata, it lifted the reservoir at ~10psi. I believe if you used the universal cap, with chain under the cylinder, it would work better.

    Before anyone asks, the motive cap for the clutch is 1100, same as the older VWs.
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    I routinely use 15-20 psi on the Miata with no issues. I am using the billet aluminum cap and not the plastic version of the cap though.

    This one: http://https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.mccallistermotorsports.com/powerbleeder1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://forum.specmiata.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?/topic/44/2822.html&h=480&w=640&tbnid=TeGTu4IpxpKb 4M:&docid=BLdwRVA1eE9diM&ei=vKD1VuXwEM3W jwOcxLD4CA&tbm=isch&ved=0ahUKEwjlvoPf19z LAhVN62MKHRwiDI8QMwg9KBYwFg

    Quote Originally Posted by Force McCocken View Post
    I have the Motive bleeder and Miata specific caps for the Miata (brake and clutch res). Works fine, but you have to use low pressure or you will pop the reservoirs off the cylinders. On the BMWs, 14psi was no big deal, on the Miata, it lifted the reservoir at ~10psi. I believe if you used the universal cap, with chain under the cylinder, it would work better.

    Before anyone asks, the motive cap for the clutch is 1100, same as the older VWs.
    Last edited by markn; 03-25-2016 at 01:35 PM.
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    ETK
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    I am afraid this a dumb question, but here goes: with the motive power bleeder, do you really need to put brake fluid in the bottle, or can you just pump it up so you can bleed a few bubbles out at the calipers? The Instructions say you need to put brake fluid in the bottle, but unless you are flushing the whole system it is a PITA. Seems like it would be fine to just use the empty pump to create some pressure, then top off the reservoir afterword if necessary.
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    I use the Motive bleeder and skip on putting the fluid in the bottle. I just watch the MC level and refill everytime it gets low. Takes a bit longer, but has less mess and I only use as much as I need, no more.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ETK View Post
    I am afraid this a dumb question, but here goes: with the motive power bleeder, do you really need to put brake fluid in the bottle, or can you just pump it up so you can bleed a few bubbles out at the calipers? The Instructions say you need to put brake fluid in the bottle, but unless you are flushing the whole system it is a PITA. Seems like it would be fine to just use the empty pump to create some pressure, then top off the reservoir afterword if necessary.
    No need to put fluid in the Motive pump, that just adds to your cleanup time.

    I love the compressor hooked up to the Motive cap idea.
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    At the track I use the Motiv bleeder (no fluid in the reservoir). In the shop I use the shop air to pressurize the the Motiv cap. The Motiv cap whip has a digital paint gun regulator and an inline drier. There is lots of moisture in compressed air typically and you don't want the moist air contaminating the brake fluid. It takes minutes to bleed the brakes with this setup.

    Mark

    Quote Originally Posted by Red_5 View Post
    No need to put fluid in the Motive pump, that just adds to your cleanup time.

    I love the compressor hooked up to the Motive cap idea.
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    RaceTape Ninja Force McCocken's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Force McCocken View Post
    I have the same one.
    Are using the 1100 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Product.../dp/B000Q6UHQK or the 1111 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Product...brake+adapter?

    Maybe your gauge is off? I have gone as high as 25 psi (1111 adapter) both with compressor air supply and the Motiv pump without issues.

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    Old timer craZee's Avatar
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    I have a Motive Bleeder w/o the cap that I will give you if you pay shipping or I will be at Buttonwillow April 23-24.

    Send me a pm if you are interested
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    I pump the brakes, walk over, and close the valve. Seems to work.

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    It's good to hear nobody's had issues with the motive.


    Quote Originally Posted by flink View Post
    I just use the Motive reservoir cap, attached to my compressor at 5-10 PSI. Fill reservoir, apply pressure, bleed away.
    Fantastic idea, and I would certainly try it if I had a compressor!


    Quote Originally Posted by craZee View Post
    I have a Motive Bleeder w/o the cap that I will give you if you pay shipping or I will be at Buttonwillow April 23-24.

    Send me a pm if you are interested
    Well that's a no brainer...I'll take you up on that offer!



    Quote Originally Posted by robburgoon View Post
    I pump the brakes, walk over, and close the valve. Seems to work.
    Are you using speed bleeders?
    '99 miata

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    RaceTape Ninja Force McCocken's Avatar
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    Mark, I have both.

    I have also had reservoir lift issues on my Acura using the Motive. Neither the e36 or e30 flinched when I used it, I expect the same trouble free use on the e46. It seems each Japanese car I have used it on blew fluid/lifted the reservoirs.
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    Senior Member robburgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyeballs View Post
    It's good to hear nobody's had issues with the motive.




    Fantastic idea, and I would certainly try it if I had a compressor!




    Well that's a no brainer...I'll take you up on that offer!





    Are you using speed bleeders?
    Nope, just a hose.

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    Well crap. Maybe I have it wrong. I'll pop the bleeder on a car today and report back.

    Quote Originally Posted by Force McCocken View Post
    Mark, I have both.

    I have also had reservoir lift issues on my Acura using the Motive. Neither the e36 or e30 flinched when I used it, I expect the same trouble free use on the e46. It seems each Japanese car I have used it on blew fluid/lifted the reservoirs.

    Mark
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    Quote Originally Posted by robburgoon View Post
    I pump the brakes, walk over, and close the valve. Seems to work.
    Yes this can work. Two cautions about that method: In theory with good caliper seals there will be some knockback of the pads off the rotors. If a car does not roll well in the paddock by hand that typically means piston drag at the caliper. Worn seals can cause that from lots of racing or runout in piston to bore. Good pad release after pedal application sucks back fluid if the bleeder is open when either no bleed tube is used or it really short. If a longer bleed hose is used then when you get off the pedal fluid is still in the tube and no air is introduced into the caliper (Rob wins). Flaws in this method occur when you have pads that retract nicely and the car rolls easy by hand or when you can see seepage at the threads while doing a 2 man bleed implying that air can enter through the coarse threads if positive pressure is lost. We saw the latter as a real problem even when using a 2 man method on 90's Ferrari clutches that used threaded bleed screws instead of nice fine thread bleeders.

    I'm also like the people above who use a motive cap and hose and pressurize my reservoir with about 10lbs of nitrogen when trackside. Otherwise I get wife to help. Trying not to make a mess I cut an "X" in the top of a water bottle cap and screw the cap and hose into an old water bottle to collect the bleed out.
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