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Thread: How much did you spend for track wheels and other considerations?

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    Default How much did you spend for track wheels and other considerations?

    Good Morning guys,
    sorry for what seems a stupid post, but here we go.

    I am looking to help my cars performance and loose a bit of unsprung weight. I need new tires and see this and opportunity to upgrade my factory 8" wide wheels to something a little wider 9.5"
    I found some light weight wheels from wedssport TC105N less than 18lbs. each. 18x9.5 The set cost approx. $2000.00

    considering all the things that car happen on the track, and the fact that these wheel will be subjected to more than usual tire changes, does it make sense to spend that kind of money?
    I don't mean to sound cheap, but I am wondering if there are other aspects I should be considering.

    Thanks in advance.

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    ETK
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    When I started, I went for a nice wide, sticky tire/wheel combo to swap on for track days. However, in retrospect, i think it would have been better for my driving to learn to get the most out of the tires with less grip first. Getting used to using the right slip angle is critical to getting fast, and it is easier with (relatively) skinny street tires for two reasons: 1) the speeds are lower, and 2) there is more usable slip angle than something like R Comps.

    Simply put: Enjoy sliding around the track with a stock wheel/tire setup, then move to wider/stickier tires later once you are dominating other street setup cars in terms of lap times.

    A couple other benefits of this approach are that you can use the money for track time/instruction, and for making the brakes work.

    (also: more grip will make your brake problems much worse)
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    http://www.trackhq.com/Banners/yellowsitesponsor.gif emilio700's Avatar
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    Wheels are a consumable, just like brake pads. I'm biased since I run a small race wheel company but I think the right amount to spend is whatever meets the following criteria, in order of importance:

    1. Must be the exact width and offset needed, no compromise here.
    2. Must be able to survive several seasons of racing (excluding impact damage, pot holes, etc)
    3. Must be affordable enough to be able to keep 3 sets at all times
    4. Must be reasonably light. Not necessarily the lightest available, but definitely not the heaviest
    5. Not custom made but regular production
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    Chest hair required Olitho's Avatar
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    Safety equipment is one of the best modifications to make you go faster.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ETK View Post
    When I started, I went for a nice wide, sticky tire/wheel combo to swap on for track days. However, in retrospect, i think it would have been better for my driving to learn to get the most out of the tires with less grip first. Getting used to using the right slip angle is critical to getting fast, and it is easier with (relatively) skinny street tires for two reasons: 1) the speeds are lower, and 2) there is more usable slip angle than something like R Comps.

    Simply put: Enjoy sliding around the track with a stock wheel/tire setup, then move to wider/stickier tires later once you are dominating other street setup cars in terms of lap times.

    A couple other benefits of this approach are that you can use the money for track time/instruction, and for making the brakes work.

    (also: more grip will make your brake problems much worse)
    You are so funny (in a good way) you last two comments made me smile. Yes, I have a few things to work out.
    The challenge is, I want to loose weight. Maybe I can get wheel of the same specs at the factory ones 18x8.5 or 18x9 that just weigh less ? I agree, I don't want to run R tires yet.
    but something with a 200 threadwear would be good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Olitho View Post
    Safety equipment is one of the best modifications to make you go faster.
    yes, I can see that. More confidence uh?

    honestly though, I think this time I drove harder because I ditched the factory seat and got a bucket seat with a harness. I was not fighting the slide in the car.
    next purchase is a hans.
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    Quote Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
    Wheels are a consumable, just like brake pads. I'm biased since I run a small race wheel company but I think the right amount to spend is whatever meets the following criteria, in order of importance:

    1. Must be the exact width and offset needed, no compromise here.
    2. Must be able to survive several seasons of racing (excluding impact damage, pot holes, etc)
    3. Must be affordable enough to be able to keep 3 sets at all times
    4. Must be reasonably light. Not necessarily the lightest available, but definitely not the heaviest
    5. Not custom made but regular production
    Thank you for the insight.

    1- I agree - I am running 10mm spacers and I really want to get a wheel with the proper offset so I can ditch the spacers. I have always heard they are not good, even with extended studs like I am running.
    2- I hope so
    3- um.. I don't know..
    4- What is considered a light wheel on the 18" range.
    5- 100% agree. I think it needs to be something popular usually in stock. (not imported or anything crazy)

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    RaceTape Ninja Force McCocken's Avatar
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    Oli is correct. $2000 for wheels is half of what all my safety gear has cost to this point, and I drive a modified n/a 1.6 Miata that I also DD when I need to. It drives me insane when I instruct that I have had students who drop $2-3k for wheels and tires on their first HPDE, but scoff at the thought of buying a helmet over $99, or you know, actually getting the car to pass tech. You seem to be investing good money in the wrong areas.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxSTI View Post
    The challenge is, I want to loose weight. Maybe I can get wheel of the same specs at the factory ones 18x8.5 or 18x9 that just weigh less ? I agree, I don't want to run R tires yet.
    but something with a 200 threadwear would be good.
    Before you head too far down the STI rabbit hole, have you thought about a Miata as a track car? I promise you will improve as a driver faster and for less money tracking a Miata. Even if you choose and NC Miata, you'll still be better served when on track. Did I mention Miata engines are much cheaper to replace when they go boom than an STI engine?
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    RaceTape Ninja Force McCocken's Avatar
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    ^truth.

    Are you prepared to write off the cost of that STI if you bend it a track? Are you getting extra coverage (insurance) as a precaution? I know very few people who have wadded a street car at a track and had their insurance company help them repair the car. I like the STI, I really do, but perhaps a simpler, slower, cheaper car is where you may want to start to become a better driver? There are volumes of car setup data and information on the Miatas and the earlier two generations can be had for $2k (ok, maybe a bit more for the nicer, prepped versions). If I wad my '92, I know I can transfer much of the components to another shell relatively cheap. Aside from occasionally checking the oil, tires, and lugnuts at the track, I can beat on it all day, drive all 6 sessions (90-120 minutes of track time), drive it home, then drive it to work the next day.
    Yer pal,
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    Quote Originally Posted by ETK View Post
    When I started, I went for a nice wide, sticky tire/wheel combo to swap on for track days. However, in retrospect, i think it would have been better for my driving to learn to get the most out of the tires with less grip first. Getting used to using the right slip angle is critical to getting fast, and it is easier with (relatively) skinny street tires for two reasons: 1) the speeds are lower, and 2) there is more usable slip angle than something like R Comps.

    Simply put: Enjoy sliding around the track with a stock wheel/tire setup, then move to wider/stickier tires later once you are dominating other street setup cars in terms of lap times.

    A couple other benefits of this approach are that you can use the money for track time/instruction, and for making the brakes work.

    (also: more grip will make your brake problems much worse)
    100% agree.
    I enjoy 200tw tires like z2, ad08r, which offer enough amount of grip and slip angle to play with. It's just more fun to me.
    VA(15) STI/FRS

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    Quote Originally Posted by Red_5 View Post
    Before you head too far down the STI rabbit hole, have you thought about a Miata as a track car?
    Lol -- It was only a matter of time before someone said this. The longer you stay in this hobby the more likely it becomes that you will buy a Miata. It is not a coincidence that so many sigs on this site are Miatas...
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    I track STI. It has been like 35-40 track days in my stock STI(except safety and cooling).
    Curb weight 3250lbs(2 bucket seats installed, removed spare tire and tools, full tank of gas)
    The expense is not that bad:
    A set of 200tw $800-900 -----7 track days
    Front brake pad $150----4 track days
    Rear brake pad ---8-9 track days
    Front Rotor----8?

    Miata is cheaper. Well, it's a different choice.
    Last edited by jqsti2015; 06-26-2017 at 11:20 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jqsti2015 View Post
    I track STI. It has been like 35-40 track days in my stock STI(except safety and cooling).
    Curb weight 3250lbs(2 bucket seats installed, removed spare tire and tools, full tank of gas)
    The expense is not that bad:
    A set of 200tw $800-900 -----7 track days
    Front brake pad $150----4 track days
    Rear brake pad ---8-9 track days
    Front Rotor----8?

    Miata is cheaper. Well, it's a different choice.
    Those expenses aren't bad! I thought STI was heavier.

    BTW, Miata is not a choice, we were born this way!
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    most posters in this thread are hair stylists.so they are biased...
    Miata driver cringed when you talk about $2,000 wheels !!! they better be gold plated !!
    like Emilio says, track wheels are consumable. if they are not, you just aren't driving hard enough. running over curbs, dropping 2 off all bend wheels.
    Miata drivers also will laugh at your 8" wheels. 2,200LB Miata likes 8" wheels on 205 or 9" wheels on 225 or 10" wheels on 245.

    but to answer your question, don't spend $2,000 on wheels. money is better spent elsewhere. even those rich Spec Corvette drivers cringe at $2,000 wheels.
    Last edited by bellwilliam; 06-26-2017 at 12:06 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Force McCocken View Post
    Oli is correct. $2000 for wheels is half of what all my safety gear has cost to this point, and I drive a modified n/a 1.6 Miata that I also DD when I need to. It drives me insane when I instruct that I have had students who drop $2-3k for wheels and tires on their first HPDE, but scoff at the thought of buying a helmet over $99, or you know, actually getting the car to pass tech. You seem to be investing good money in the wrong areas.
    I am 100% with you on that. No I don't have a 99 dollar helmet. It actually paid a lot more for it - its an actual car helmet. I am also ordering a hans to to along with my harness and "roll bar/cage" (yeah that is another mess I need sort out but one thing at a time). But I realize the safer you are the better and more confidently you can drive. Eventually I will put in the FS systems, something simple, but I don't think I am there yet - although you can't be too safe.
    I do appreciate the humor and honest advice though. I am trying my best to do it the right way as much as possible.

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    Wheels are a consumable, you will slowly kill them even without wheel to wheel.

    However, IF they are strong enough for track use, and IF they are a wheel you will be happy with for the next 20 track days, that's only $100 more a track day.

    If you're not racing, I'd encourage you to find something sturdy and cheaper that fits, or stick with what you have.

    I'm not sure anyone has ever regretted the change to S2000 or miata for track use though. Maybe we can add corvette to that list soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ETK View Post
    Lol -- It was only a matter of time before someone said this. The longer you stay in this hobby the more likely it becomes that you will buy a Miata. It is not a coincidence that so many sigs on this site are Miatas...
    Well let me answer.. LOL

    interestingly enough I did consider that, but I have so much $ and time into the STI that I just need to stick with it for now. I am into making it reach 500 HP. On the other hand, I like my car slow, but light and really want to work on the driver mod.
    Not sure how you guys will take this, but I actually drive the MX5 most of the time on iracing. That is how I get my fix between track days lol. (but that is only because they don't have an STI)

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    Figure out your priorities? If you want to mod the driver, but still keep pumping money into the STI for 500hp and reliability, how does that mod the driver? I'm not being critical, I don't understand your logic.
    Yer pal,
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxSTI View Post

    interestingly enough I did consider that, but I have so much $ and time into the STI that I just need to stick with it for now. I am into making it reach 500 HP. On the other hand, I like my car slow, but light and really want to work on the driver mod.
    Not sure how you guys will take this, but I actually drive the MX5 most of the time on iracing. That is how I get my fix between track days lol. (but that is only because they don't have an STI)
    As Force said, for such a short post it's full of contradictions.

    500 hp from an STI engine? Have you bought/started building its replacement?
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